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Focusing and Collimating Laser Light on a Table Top Scale

For a laser beam to be narrow and stay narrow, you need parallel beams. The usual approach is to focus the beam onto a very small pinhole (say 10-20 m or so), then focus a second lens on the pinhole (expander). The fact that all rays have to pass through the very small point means that any diverging components of the beam will be intercepted by the pinhole; the second lens expands the beam into a series of "almost parallel" rays. The ratio of focal lengths of the primary and secondary lens determines the degree of compression along the diameter of the beam that you can achieve: but the tighter the beam, the more divergent it will be (because the size of the pinhole will be magnified by a short focal length lens).As usual there is no free lunch... a smaller pinhole (less intensity) allows for better collimation.This is described in this article (unfortunately without good pictures) and again here with better picturesPicture from the latter is reproduced here:You need a second lens at the location where the "Gaussian Profile" is shown in order to get a parallel beam again. For a 1 cm lens and a 10 m pinhole your beam will have a divergence of 0.001 rad - at a distance of 1 m it will diverge by 1 mm.Note that diffraction can play a role to further thwart your efforts at making a collimated beam. As the pinhole becomes smaller, the diffraction effect becomes more significant. You typically try to balance the geometrical and diffraction effects for the smallest over-all divergence - meaning that you roughly want to make $fraclambdad=fracdf$ where $f$ is the focal length of the secondary lens and $d$ is the size of the pinhole. There might be a factor 1.22 in there somewhere

Focusing and Collimating Laser Light on a Table Top Scale 1

1. Nice small table, top is scuffed up. How can I (inexpensively) fix it/restore it?

Old English is available everywhere (even at the grocery) and it works great. Just rub it on the scuffs and they virtually disappear. It is basically a stain that wo not effect the part of the table that still has poly or varnish on it. It only stains the scratches. I am 40 and still remember being 10 years old and hiding "scratches" in Mom's coffee table before she got home. The make a dark stain and light stain version. If the scratches get too deep and you are brave, a quick rub with fine steel wool (hardware store) then some spray polyurethane is easy, but every tiny bit of dust in the air will be your enemy. Only try this if you are willing to part with the table when you mess up. See how you like the Old English first.

2. what is the best world war two table top game out there to date?

If it's about war, a good game to play would be Games of the Generals

Focusing and Collimating Laser Light on a Table Top Scale 2

3. How do I insert text above a table at the top of a Word document?

The active cursor is even with the bottom left of the table normally. You can just hit CtrlHome to get to the very first character of the file, then Enter to move the table down.If your table is positioned after the section break, or on top of any other page, or anywhere else for that matter, place the cursor in the top left cell of the table, and hit CtrlShiftEnter to insert a new line before the table.

4. What can we do with a player who camps in a table top game?

You could take some hints from FPS games, namely games with snipers. Once a sniper gets into a strong nest, it can be hard to dislodge them since getting to them leaves you exposed and you can not shoot back at them until you are close. Some games put objectives out into the open. Since your objective is elimination, why not put some sort of buff/equipment/units in the open for your players to fight over (ala Hunger Games style?). Or have stationary artillery that are hard to hold, but can punish players if they stay in a certain area

5. Table-top Golf game with coins?

Sounds a little bit like Shove Ha'penny.Only cooler

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